In this week’s luxury briefing, I uncover why leather is having a moment in luxury fashion. Plus, an inside look at Santoni’s new flagship store in NYC. Also, Loewe’s creative director shift, Tapestry’s lawsuit against Shein and Jacquemus‘s new planewear. If you have comments on this briefing or tips for future editions, please email me at zofia@glossy.co.
From Prada’s razor-sharp leather trenches to Versace’s reimagined moto jackets to Hermès’ all-leather collection, the Fall 2025 runways across New York, London, Milan and Paris confirmed that leather is firmly back at the center of fashion.
But leather’s resurgence is more than a runway trend. It also reflects a deepening commitment by luxury brands to craftsmanship, exclusivity and long-term value in an uncertain market. As such, demand is spiking on the consumer side, too. Creator technology platform LTK, which tracks consumer search data, shows searches for leather pencil skirts were up 1,200% this week, reinforcing that this is not just a designer-driven push.
“People are looking for pieces that feel substantial,” says David Liu, co-founder and CMO of the luxury leather goods brand Leatherology. “There’s been a shift away from fast fashion toward items that feel intentional, well-made and lasting. Leather naturally fits into that mindset — it’s one of those materials that just gets better with time.”
For its part, Leatherology has seen 26% category growth in the last year, with its leather women’s train cases surpassing $1 million in sales. Hermès, meanwhile, posted a 17% sales increase, reaching €3.36 billion ($3.62 billion) in the fourth quarter of 2024, with its leather goods division leading revenue with a growth of 15%. The brand’s controlled production model and tight supply reinforce the industry-wide reality that scarcity continues to drive desirability in high-end leather fashion goods.
Italy remains at the heart of this resurgence. The country supplies 24% of the world’s leather, with 66% of European leather production coming from Italy alone. Italian tanneries dominate the supply chains of luxury powerhouses like Chanel, Hermès and Louis Vuitton, all of whom were present at the Lineapelle trade fair in February, seeking new leather innovations and partnerships.
“Every major luxury brand was there,” says Fulvia Bacchi, CEO of Lineapelle. “They’re working on new projects, looking for the best suppliers and ensuring that their leather remains at the highest level of craftsmanship.”
Sustainability remains a priority, but the leather industry is actively repositioning itself as part of the circular economy. “Ninety-nine percent of leather comes from animals raised for meat,” Bacchi said. “Leather is a byproduct, not a driver, of livestock farming.” Italian tanneries have also introduced stringent traceability systems, water-reduction methods and chemical-free tanning processes to align with shifting industry standards.
Despite ongoing conversations about alternative leather materials being both positive and negative, brands continue to favor leather for its durability and inherent value. “We haven’t offered a ‘vegan leather’ alternative because they’re often petroleum-based and don’t last, leading to more waste in the long run,” says Liu. However, innovation in the space is still happening: Stella McCartney showcased mycelium-based leather in Paris, and brands like Hodakova are making waves by repurposing vintage leather into modern pieces.
Economic uncertainty is also playing a role in leather’s resurgence. “Luxury leather goods remain resilient because they retain their value,” Liu said. “Consumers are becoming more selective, and leather’s craftsmanship and longevity make it a safer investment.”
According to LTK’s March and February shopping data, consumers are gravitating toward luxury leather coats and bags, including pieces from Miu Miu, Alaïa and Bottega Veneta. Drivers of leather fashion sales include the rise of cinematic sci-fi aesthetics, the Y2K revival and hyper-luxury. Recent looks worn by Zendaya and Bad Bunny have contributed to its status boost.
On the fall 2025 runways, Khaite’s elongated leather gloves and Michael Kors’s cinched leather coats reflected understated elegance, while London-based designers such as Paul Costelloe and Dilara Findikoglu used the material to weave in narratives around heritage and subversion. In Paris, Hermès reinforced the timeless appeal of luxury leather, doubling down on its legacy with meticulously crafted handbags and outerwear.
Italian leather craftsmanship comes to NYC with Santoni
Speaking of leather, Italian footwear and accessories brand Santoni opened its largest flagship, in NYC, on March 17, ahead of the brand’s 50th anniversary later this year.
It’s a business move that it hopes will solidify its evolution from a high-end shoemaker into a full-fledged luxury house. The 350-square-meter boutique at 667 Madison Avenue, designed by Patricia Urquiola, reflects a trend in luxury retail: investing in physical spaces that immerse consumers in a brand’s universe and reinforce its core identity. Other examples of this include Louis Vuitton’s Maison Vendôme, Dior’s Avenue Montaigne, Gucci Garden, Bottega Veneta Tokyo and Chanel’s Place Vendôme.
For Santoni, New York has always been an important market. “It was here, in 1997, that we opened our first boutique, marking the beginning of a story of innovation and expansion,” said brand president Giuseppe Santoni. “Today, our journey extends far beyond men’s footwear, strongly embracing the women’s and accessories segments. This evolution made a larger space necessary — one capable of embodying our vision and offering customers a true experience, an authentic encounter with our universe.”
And the family-owned Italian luxury shoemaker, operates a 300,000-square-foot facility in Corridonia, Italy, producing 2,000 pairs daily with over 500 artisans and generating an estimated $100 million to $500 million in annual revenue.
He added, “Flagship stores are crucial in communicating the true essence of our brand and building deeper connections with our clientele. These stores serve as more than just points of sale — they’re immersive environments where customers can fully experience the Santoni philosophy, craftsmanship and heritage.” The company has five stores in North America, including in NYC, L.A. and Miami.
Santoni sees its presence in New York as a way to control its image and connect directly with customers in a market that continues to drive growth in the sector. In New York, many tourists are women looking for quality products as gifts, which the company hopes will convert to foot traffic and sales.
Inside the flagship, the store’s design reflects Santoni’s evolution, merging clean geometric lines inspired by the Chrysler Building with rich Italian materials like onyx and travertine. The lower level houses Bespoke Santoni, where customers can personalize their purchases, answering the current demand for luxury customization.
Executive moves
- Jonathan Anderson is leaving Loewe after 11 years, having transformed the brand into a global luxury powerhouse. Rumors are swirling that Anderson is headed to Dior — the news is expected to be announced after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s final two shows. The New York Times reported that “it is widely accepted that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the American founders of Proenza Schouler,” will take over at Loewe. The designers stepped down from their label in January.
- British designer Paul Surridge is joining Prada to focus on menswear. The move will see him reuniting with Raf Simons after previously working together at Jil Sander, marking a full-circle moment in his career.
News to know
- Tapestry is suing Shein for trademark infringement, false advertising and unfair competition, alleging the fast fashion giant sold counterfeit Coach products that misled consumers into thinking they were authentic or officially affiliated with the brand.
- WHP Global is looking to acquire Guess Inc. in a $751.5 million deal, which will keep the Marciano brothers and CEO Carlos Alberini as shareholders while taking over the brand’s IP and adding to its growing portfolio as it strengthens its positioning in the $50 billion brand management sector. Its portfolio already includes Vera Wang, Bonobos, Express and G-Star.
- French airline company Air France has tapped Jacquemus to design its first-ever La Première loungewear set, part of the airline’s first-class luxury upgrade that also includes Sisley amenity kits, Dumas Paris bedding and exclusive cocktails.
- Macy’s is reportedly bringing the trailblazing women of retail from the book When Women Ran Fifth Avenue: Glamour and Power at the Dawn of American Fashion” to TV with a new scripted series, which has not yet been named. This will expand Macy’s media footprint beyond the Thanksgiving Parade and 4th of July Fireworks.
- Koibird is ditching e-commerce to focus on immersive in-store experiences, collaborations and a new wellness café, reflecting a broader industry shift toward physical retail.
Stat of the week
- 8 billion pairs of tights are produced, worn once and discarded every year, according to a new report from French environmental organization Halte à l’Obsolescence Programmée. To combat this, on March 18, luxury tights brand Swedish Stockings is expanding its Recycling Club to all retailers — regardless of whether they sell the brand’s hosiery — as part of a 2025 sustainability goal to take back more tights than it produces. Swedish Stockings is launching a new textile art collaboration with artist Sienna Martz to repurpose hosiery waste creatively.
Listen in
Alison Bringé, CMO of data analytics company Launchmetrics, was on the Glossy Week in Review podcast last Friday talking about fashion month data.
Read on Glossy
Executives weigh in on how to deal with tariffs. American Eagle is creating ‘third spaces’ for students to hang out in Nashville. Kering’s CEO on why Demna was the right choice for Gucci. Why Copenhagen Fashion Week has been accused of greenwashing. How affordable watch brands are benefiting from rising watch prices.
