More womenswear brands are expanding to menswear, which, according to analysts, is a more stable market.
Fifteen-year-old David Koma launched its first menswear collection at Men’s Fashion Week in Milan on June 20. “Expanding into menswear feels like a natural step, completing my dream of ‘Club Koma,’” the brand’s namesake designer said, referencing his concept of a brand world. “Designing with my male friends in mind broadens the inclusivity and reach of my creative vision, inviting new voices and perspectives to join our brand’s realm. It aligns perfectly with our brand’s ethos of embracing diversity and celebrating unique expressions of style.”
The U.K.-based brand showed a collection of 20 menswear pieces, including outerwear, leather items and crystal-decorated hoodies. The collection will launch in spring 2025.
According to Paul Simmons, director at design agency Oma Studio, the fading influence of streetwear has led menswear shoppers to explore other areas for inspiration. Less streetwear has been seen on the men’s catwalks since 2021. “They are now more aware of what’s happening at zeitgeist-y womenswear brands, indicating a promising future for designers who venture into menswear,” he said.
With athletes like Travis Kelce getting press for their unique fashion choices and the demand for men’s jewelry on the rise, menswear is becoming a more diverse category, moving beyond formalwear and streetwear.
Designers’ approach to their menswear collections often differs from how they design womenswear. “Key elements that differentiate the menswear collection include the juxtaposition of masculine utilitarian references with subtle nods to humor and sensuality,” Koma said. “This approach reflects the multifaceted nature of the Koma man, balancing ease and sophistication, playfulness and elegance.” His latest womenswear collection, for spring 2025, meanwhile, was inspired by dance pioneer Pina Bausch and the contemporary Spanish action artist Candela Capitan.
David Koma, which has experienced 76% annual sales growth compared to pre-pandemic, is stocked at retailers including Selfridges, Revolve and MyTheresa. Last year alone, the brand was worn by Kendall Jenner, Dua Lipa, Jennifer Lopez, Ana de Armas and Blackpink’s Lisa.
But expanding to menswear comes with challenges, including designing for an all-new audience with very different body types. “This menswear collection allowed me to add personal vulnerability into my creative output more than ever,” Koma said.
According to market research company IMARC Group’s latest menswear report, the market is expected to reach $792 billion by 2028, exhibiting a compound annual growth rate of 6.1% from 2023-2028. Comparatively, according to the IMARC Group, the global womenswear apparel market size reached $1 trillion in 2023 and is expected to reach $ 1.36 trillion by 2032.
Simmons said that expanding product verticals in the current, rocky retail climate may seem counterintuitive, but when it comes to menswear, it can offer a brand greater stability. “A menswear line can be built out via a solid capsule of basics while leveraging the halo effect of the womenswear side of the brand,” he said. “It’s an easier [expansion category]” because it allows the brand to develop its offerings over time as the customer base and awareness grow.”
According to Simmons, men are increasingly turning away from streetwear and seeking out interesting tailoring and styles facilitating more self-expression. Fashion search engine Tagwalk’s analysis of the menswear spring 2025 collections showed that classical silhouettes are coming back. Compared to last year, there was an 86% decrease in technical looks, including styles inspired by hiking and running gear, and a 70% drop in grunge looks, according to the company.
Other womenswear designers that have launched menswear since 2023 include 16Arlington, in February that year, as well as Peter Do, Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha.
