This is an episode of the Glossy Beauty Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the beauty and wellness industries. More from the series →
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The latest Glossy Beauty Podcast episode features board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marnie Nussbaum and beauty industry veteran Jodi Kaplan — the founder and CEO, respectively, of the Dr. Marnie skin-care brand. Dr. Nussbaum gained popularity while catering to dermatology clients in New York City’s Upper East Side before launching the brand, which was called Lines before rebranding in November. For her part, Kaplan built her industry prowess through roles at brands including Droplette, Dr. Barbara Sturm and Augustinus Bader.
Dermatologist-founded brands continue to resonate with beauty consumers, who are seeking credibility, education and expertise in an oversaturated market. On the podcast, Glossy Pop editor Sara Spruch-Feiner asks Dr. Nussbaum and Kaplan why they chose to lose “Lines,” what a founder’s name on a product line signifies and what’s in store for derm-led skin care in the years to come. Highlights from the episode, below, have been lightly edited for clarity.
Choosing a new brand name
Dr. Nussbaum: “I had spoken to all my friends, everyone in my clinic — we use my office like an R&D lab. I clinically test every product, but [clients] test it in real time. And they were all like, ‘You have worked so hard for 20 years. You care so much about every single product, about what you’re putting onto our skin. You built this. Why aren’t you using your name?’ And I was like, ‘OK.'”
What’s behind the derm-brand boom
Dr. Nussbaum: “I feel as though the public right now is highly educated, and not only educated, but also more discerning than ever. They see through hype, and as a doctor, I take my job very seriously, in terms of both maintaining the integrity of the products as well as what I recommend. When formulating my product, I wanted everything perfect. I wanted the right efficacy, the right texture, the right packaging. I wanted everything to be like an extension of a treatment, but in the palm of your hand at home. Not only that, but I also wanted formulations that were never done before — and that requires a lot of R&D and innovation. And I’m very lucky to have gotten the lab in South Korea that I did, because they were able to incorporate ingredients that were never incorporated together. But once I had that, I tested it for efficacy, because I care, because I’m a physician. I want to stand behind my products and know they’re the best they can be.”
2026 growth plans
Kaplan: “2026 is when we intend to hit the gas. Interestingly, I don’t think Marnie spent a dime on any kind of marketing before I got here, and we still haven’t done that. … So, in 2026, we intend to spend the first half of the year really honing in on our own DTC and investing a little bit more. We brought on a great PR team — they’re doing a lot of heavy lifting for us right now, just to get the word out. We know when people try the brand, they get hooked on the brand. We see that in the repeat purchases in our small customer base right now. We’re already in talks with many retailers, trying to ascertain the best move forward for us, in terms of who we start with, geographically — and also making sure that we are being really careful and thoughtful in this current environment, in terms of how wide we go.”
