This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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On this week’s episode of the Glossy Podcast, we catch up with Clare Waight Keller, named Uniqlo’s creative director early this month. Waight Keller discusses her transition from designing at luxury fashion houses to leading the creative direction at a global retail giant, and her plans for Uniqlo’s future.
After studying at Ravensbourne College of Art and Design and earning her master’s degree from the Royal College of Art, Waight Keller held design roles at Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. She later worked under Tom Ford at Gucci before taking the helm at Pringle of Scotland in 2005. In 2011, she became the creative director at Chloé, where her feminine, free-spirited designs took off. In 2017, she made history as the first female creative director at Givenchy, where she famously designed Meghan Markle’s wedding dress.
Waight Keller is now taking on a new challenge at Uniqlo, merging her luxury design sensibilities with the brand’s technological innovations and global reach. “Good design is good design, whether it’s on a luxury runway or in a global retail store,” she said.
For Waight Keller, the appeal of Uniqlo lies in its integrity and focus on quality. “What was most surprising to me was how similar the design process at Uniqlo is to that of a luxury house,” she said. “We approach it with the same level of care and craftsmanship. The difference is in scale.” But she doesn’t see the size of Uniqlo’s operations as a hindrance. Instead, she embraces it as a unique opportunity to reach a broader audience while maintaining a high standard of design.
But one challenge she is realizing is merging fashion with innovation. “The innovation at Uniqlo is unparalleled,” she said. “The access to cutting-edge fabrics and the [company’s] commitment to performance-based design is something I’m really excited about.”
In addition to innovation, Waight Keller is focused on sustainability. As she steps into her new role, she’s pushing Uniqlo even further toward environmentally conscious fashion. “We’re already doing a lot, but I believe we can do even more,” she said. “Sustainability is crucial, but so is longevity. We want to create pieces that last, both in terms of style and durability.”
Uniqlo’s focus on essential, timeless pieces has been refreshing, Waight Keller said. “At Givenchy, I was designing up to 10 collections a year. At Uniqlo, it’s two. But the pressure is still there — it’s about making sure every piece is perfect. We’re creating wardrobe staples that can stand the test of time, and that’s where I find the challenge.”
She added, “Fashion doesn’t have to be fleeting. With Uniqlo, I’m designing for everyone, from teenagers experimenting with style to professionals looking for the perfect tailored suit.” Her vision is to make high-quality, stylish clothing accessible and inclusive, across all demographics and generations.
Men’s fashion at Uniqlo is a category she plans to expand. “From the first collection, we had so many men asking when we’d launch menswear. Now, it’s here, and the response has been incredible,” she said.
As Waight Keller looks ahead, she’s excited to build upon Uniqlo’s strong foundation, she said. “I’ve got so much access to the tools I need to push the boundaries,” she said. “My goal is to take Uniqlo to the next level, without losing what makes the brand special: quality, accessibility and timeless style.”
On balancing creative freedom and commercial needs
“I always push quite far. And then they always tell me when I need to go back [and make updates]. For example, with a suit fabric, I might want a hairy surface and softness, but they’ll say it needs to be lined and that the price comes in at this. [They’ll say] ‘Would you buy it for that?’ … And I think, ‘No, you’re right.’ So, we go back and rework. It’s a collaboration between design and commercial sensibility.”
On the challenge of forecasting trends a year in advance
“We’re working about a year ahead. The idea is to capture what’s going to happen a year from now. That’s actually harder than in luxury, where you have a six-month turnaround. It’s more difficult to forecast that far out. Timelessness is what gives clothes longevity, and with so much in the market, what I love about Uniqlo is that it’s about creating the perfect pieces, the ones that last.”
On the importance of customer feedback in design
“Uniqlo has so much data from their customers. They often comment on fabric performance, how [the fabric] feels, the length and [other] details. The Japanese customer is very discerning. They look at everything. We get feedback on the Japanese site like, ‘I love this fabric, but it wrinkles a little too much.’ Or, ‘I wish there were more pieces in this color.’ And we listen. It’s quite extraordinary how much feedback we incorporate.”
