This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
With an Instagram bio that reads “Welcome to the party,” 6-year-old Retrofête is best known for its sexy, statement, going-out looks that have been worn by celebrities from Taylor Swift to Paris Hilton. And that focus is working to fuel its growth: Retrofête has been hosting NYFW shows since September, it opened physical retail in late 2022, and it’s expanded to categories including footwear.
On this week’s episode of the Glossy Podcast, Ohad Seroya, co-founder and creative director of the NYC-based brand, discusses its growth trajectory and current strategies, including why its participation in New York Fashion Week is important, how it’s controlling its wholesale presence and how it’s improving upon the common in-store experience. Highlights from the podcast, below, have been lightly edited for clarity.
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Mastering DTC to win at wholesale
“We were really lucky and very smart to [focus on DTC sales] during the pandemic. … When you work with other retailers, they can shift your image and your vision of the brand because they are creating their own demand and their own clients. They are requesting from you what their clients want, and you need to provide that because you have to bring sales for the company. What happened with Retrofête is that, with my amazing team, we were able to analyze: ‘Who is the Retrofête girl?’ And then we could [communicate] what she wants [to our retail partners]. Many stores are closing and don’t pay their vendors — people don’t talk about it, but I know many of my friends in the fashion industry have had to close their businesses or fire 50% of their team because they trusted big-name stores that just didn’t pay them and they closed. … We were focusing on the direct-to-consumer [business]. … Now, as we work with our wholesale partners, we can give them our knowledge and … understanding of the Retrofête girl and tell them, ‘This is what you should buy. This is what she’s looking for.’ [Focusing on DTC] has given us the confidence to go to them and say, ‘Hey, we sold 1,000 units of this dress. You should buy it because it will make a great business.’ We can go to them from a business perspective because we have the information and the data.”
Perfecting the in-store experience
“I’m actually the one who does the training for the store [associates] because I come from a retail [background]. And I try to explain how important it is for them — that it’s not only a job and that they should take the job very seriously and be a great person, no matter who is coming through the door. … They should give [customers] a good feeling. I’m a shopper, but sometimes I like to dress very casually. And then I’ll go into stores and, considering the way they treat you and look at you, [I think], ‘Why should I spend my money here? It doesn’t work like that.’ I will spend my money in a place where I get a smile and where you tell me, ‘If you need help, let me know.’ And then I’ll know that the next time [I shop there], I will feel comfortable. It’s very important that everyone who comes into our store feels welcomed to the party and feels at home. … People are asking why retail is doing so bad. But, when it comes to all the big companies, [I want to ask], ‘Did you send somebody to check how [your employees] treat people? Did you ever go into a store?’”
The argument for a NYFW show
“We thought, ‘How can we show people the Retrofête world — the shoes, the bags, the vibe, the music, walking with the DJ, … ?’ And we really enjoyed the experience. Then in February, we hosted a show at the Plaza [Hotel] with the lights and the color, and the models — Karolina Trentini opened the show — and the hair, and the drama. I literally said to the models, ‘I need you to leave fire on the runway.’ … We had this connection with the models. And the show went viral on Instagram afterward. People felt the vibe, they felt the energy — and it wasn’t even about the clothing. … But it helped people to understand who we are.”
