This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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At a time when DEI initiatives are regressing and investment in BIPOC brands is dropping, Raise Fashion continues to make an impact. As described by Felita Harris, a founding board member and now the CEO of the nonprofit organization, Raise has remained dedicated to advancing the equity of BIPOC talent in the fashion industry since its launch in 2020.
“Represented individuals have an ecosystem where they can network, receive financial opportunities and distribute their products with a certain level of ease. Underrepresented talent does not have the same opportunities. So we are building a pro bono and operational ecosystem that services the voices of underrepresented, often BIPOC talent,” Harris said on the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast.
For example, through a Masterclass series, Raise awards and supports 10 BIPOC designers each year. On Wednesday, this year’s Masterclass designers, including Fe Noel, Charles Harbison and K.NGSLEY, will present their spring 2025 collections at a New York Fashion Week event hosted by Raise Fashion and sponsored by Abercrombie & Fitch.
“For us, it’s about creating this environment where [BIPOC] designers can receive the information they need — the networking and resources that are required to scale,” Harris said. “And they’re doing it in a community that wants to embrace the change and inclusion that is necessary to evolve the fashion industry.”
Harris also discussed the state of diversity in fashion, the importance of NYFW participation and Raise Fashion’s long-term mission. Highlights from the conversation, below, have been lightly edited for clarity.
The state of DEI in fashion
“It depends on the organization. We’ve definitely seen some organizations stay the course or even deepen their commitments [to DEI]. However, overall, there has been a noticeable deprioritization, as though DEI is being treated like a trend or a seasonal handbag. But we must remember that people’s culture, ethnicity, gender and sexual orientation are not trends. They are fundamental to who they are and how they show up. And we need to prioritize people over business. … We need to think about people. I really miss that time when the world was shut down and we really thought about people — when we had to think about people. It’s crucial to re-engage and develop a sustainable path for how we will continue investing in infrastructure and resources that support underrepresented communities. We don’t want to lose sight of that.”
The challenges of advancing equity for BIPOC designers
“One of the biggest challenges I’ve encountered is advancing equity for BIPOC designers. There is a systematic lack of access to resources and networks. Many of these designers are incredibly talented, but they don’t have the same opportunities to connect with retailers, investors or the media that others might have, and that creates a significant barrier to scaling their business — building the visibility and gaining the distribution opportunities. That is what we are here for, but it is still a big challenge. Another challenge is overcoming the deep bias issues in the industry. And while we’ve made big progress, there’s still resistance to embracing diversity. The fact that we’re still even having the conversation about the relevancy of diversity, equity, inclusion and belonging blows my mind. … The fact that we’re talking about challenges in leadership roles for BIPOC individuals who are qualified blows my mind. But the fact is that that is an issue, and we need to get beyond it. The other challenge that we face and still face is having the right financial resources in place. Designers are still struggling with long-term funding and capital to grow their businesses. Yes, we have made strides — we have successfully put 18 designers through our program, [providing them with] $15,000 each. That’s meaningful, but it’s not enough to run a business. There needs to be continued support and a sustained financial infrastructure. It is unacceptable that we have not addressed that in a meaningful way, and yet we understand that diverse American designers are needed in our system.”
Removing the financial barrier to NYFW
“Raise’s presence at Fashion Week is so important. It’s one of the most influential events in the world, and it’s an essential platform for us to showcase the talent of BIPOC designers and elevate their visibility. The reason that we decided to be a part of New York Fashion Week is to help remove the significant financial hurdle that comes with that. We have 28 designers we’ve invited this year, and we remove the costs. There’s no cost to participate with Raise Fashion, so there’s significant support there. We’re inviting the industry — editors, press, retailers, fashion enthusiasts — to come, meet these designers and hear their stories in an effort to potentially open up media opportunities, distribution opportunities and revenue. So it is significant. New York Fashion Week attracts industry leaders from around the world. So we’re providing an opportunity for our designers to connect with influential figures, potential collaborators and business partners. And these connections can open doors to new opportunities that can change the trajectory of their business.”
