This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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In the latest episode of the Glossy Podcast, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska sits down with Edward Buchanan, a designer and creative director whose work has helped define modern luxury. From his early days as the first creative director at Bottega Veneta to his launch of a gender-fluid knitwear brand, Sansovino 6, Buchanan has continued to push fashion forward. He’s now bringing his fresh perspective to Perfect Magazine, founded by stylist and creative director Katie Grand, where he’s the Milan fashion director.
Ahead of Milan Fashion Week’s start, Buchanan discussed the decline of quality in luxury, the challenges facing independent designers and the structural shifts happening behind the scenes in Italian manufacturing.
On the changing landscape of Italian fashion manufacturing
“I’ve been living in Milan for almost three decades, which is crazy to think about as an American. Italy has this incredibly rich history of artisan workmanship. Every major luxury house, from the big to the small, has relied on Italian manufacturing. But things are shifting. Younger generations aren’t necessarily interested in manual labor anymore, which has led to factories shutting down over the last decade. Many brands have outsourced to the Far East, or they’re struggling to find local talent willing to do the work. Italy remains a critical hub for manufacturing, but there’s been a fundamental change in how production happens. There’s now a mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship and an influx of international labor. It’s still a vital space, but the dynamics are different.”
On the struggles of young and independent designers
“Milan has always been known for its institutional brands. The major buyers, editors and industry players come to see powerhouses like Prada, Gucci and Diesel — these brands have massive marketing budgets that keep Milan’s global relevance alive. But that leaves very little space for independent designers. Department stores are disappearing, multibrand boutiques are shrinking, and the price point for an emerging designer isn’t all that different from a luxury brand’s pricing. So where do these designers fit in? Some organizations, like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Afro Fashion Association, offer support, but mentorship and structural industry change are needed. It’s not just about giving young brands a slot on the Fashion Week schedule; it’s about ensuring they have the resources to build sustainable businesses. The industry needs to stop treating independent designers as an afterthought.”
On the luxury market’s pricing and quality crisis
“Luxury prices have become ridiculous. You walk into a store and see a simple pair of trousers for €900, knowing full well that the real cost of materials and labor is a fraction of that. The industry used to operate on a 2.7x markup from manufacturing to wholesale to retail — now it’s sometimes 10x. Who are we really making these products for? It’s one thing for luxury to cater to the top 1%, but what about the broader consumer? And then there’s the question of quality: Has it gone down? In some cases, absolutely. If a mass-market brand offers a manufacturer a massive order using the same materials as a luxury house, but for 30-40% less, that manufacturer is going to take the deal. That’s business. So when people say, ‘Luxury isn’t what it used to be,’ they’re not wrong.”
