This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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Before taking the reins as creative director of Carolina Herrera in 2018, Wes Gordon had been immersed in the world of high fashion by running his own label and going to school at Central Saint Martins. After graduating, he launched his eponymous label in 2009 and quickly garnered attention for his sophisticated and vibrant aesthetic, which blends modern sensibilities with timeless elegance.
Since stepping into his role at Carolina Herrera, Wes Gordon has been credited with infusing the brand with a fresh, exuberant spirit while also honoring the opulent and refined legacy of the founder, Mrs. Herrera. His collections are celebrated for their dynamic use of color, meticulous craftsmanship and playful yet sophisticated aesthetic. Under his creative guidance, the brand has continued to captivate a global audience, expand to new markets and grow its e-commerce reach. Carolina Herrera is opening multiple stores in the next couple of months, with its most recent opening being in Palm Beach. The brand is owned by Spanish conglomerate Puig, which also owns Paco Rabanne, Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier.
This week’s Glossy Podcast explores Carolina Herrera’s Puig ownership, Gordon’s challenges while taking over Herrera’s role and the the brand’s Met Gala plans this year. The interview has been lightly edited for clarity.
Marrying the business and creative sides of fashion
“[The business and creative side] are not separate things. At the end of the day, a designer is making something to be sold for a woman to fall in love with and want to purchase and own and wear for life. It’s a totally commercial exercise. And I’m better at my job the more I understand the business and our clients. It’s old-fashioned to think of the designer throwing their hands over their ears and refusing to listen if someone in the room is talking about sales or business. [For me] it’s the opposite — it informs me about what I’m doing. I want our collections to be successful, I don’t want to create waste. I want to make pieces that work, that grow the business, that women are excited about and purchase. So any help I can have doing that — by [referencing] data or talking to stores or being on the road — that only makes me better.”
Paying homage to a brand founder and history
“It took me a beat to find my own voice. It’s something I’m still aware of because the first time [Carolina] sees a collection is when everyone else sees the collection. … Because it’s her name, I want her to be happy with it and feel confident that her legacy is being well taken care of. But I’ve also learned that I’m not here to just pay homage to her and try to replicate what she did. That’s not the point. It’s about having the utmost respect for the house and understanding the brand and our customer. I’m here because I was tasked with injecting my own point of view into things, and that takes time. It’s hard at the beginning, … but with each season, I found my own voice more and more. “
The Herrera customer
“Rather than just design clothes for special occasions, [we’re] trying to create clothes that can turn any moment into a special occasion. … Something that’s really interesting about [our client] is that she’s always optimistic. She also makes the effort, whether it’s through her appearance, how she’s dressing, how she’s setting the table or in her professional life. In a world where a lot of people have stopped making that effort, Herrera is there for those who do.”
Department stores and clientele
“[Our retail partners are] the Neiman Marcus Group, Bergdorf, Nordstrom, Saks and Bloomingdale’s. These stores have defined and shaped American luxury culture for the past century. … We know they face challenges, we read about them in the news. But at the end of the day, they still have amazing customers, sales associates and managers. [Department stores] are still super important. But it’s not the only thing anymore. We have our own e-commerce, and we’re growing our network of our stores. And there are a lot of specialty stores that do extraordinary business. At the end of the day, [the best partner] comes down to who has fostered amazing relationships with clients. That could be a little shop in a town or it could be a Bergdorf.”
Puig’s ownership
“[Puig] has the kindest, nicest people. They’re super supportive. They love the houses they work with; they have a real reverence for their brands. [Puig’s support] definitely makes the business and growth much easier in a lot of ways. When I was doing my own collection, so much of my day-to-day was spent stressing about, ‘Will there be a tomorrow for the company?’ When you remove that anxiety, you’re allowed to think creatively and do your best work.”
The 2024 Met Gala
“We’re doing many Met Gala dresses, for women who are guests of the Met Gala and have come to Herrera to purchase gowns. We have lots of that, as we do every year. But then, in addition, if you’re familiar with the Met Gala, the designer takes a date. So I have my date, for whom we’re making her first Met Gala dress. It’s a very exciting one.”
