This week, a look at the continued impact of TV on fashion and fashion on TV as more brands and companies get in on the TV opportunity. Also, the latest investment rounds and executive moves.
Even fictional characters can’t get away from money woes these days.
In Season 4 of “Emily in Paris,” which premiered on Netflix on Thursday, Lily Collins’s character, Emily Cooper, introduces her friend Mindy Chen to Vestiaire Collective when Mindy faces financial difficulties while preparing for a performance on Eurovision. Emily suggests that Mindy sell some of her designer clothes on the resale platform.
Vestiaire Collective’s appearance on the show positions the company in front of a global audience already engaged in the fashion-forward narrative of the show — “Emily in Paris,” which is accessible in over 190 countries, has seen particular success in the United States, France, the United Kingdom and Brazil. The show was viewed in 58 million households during the 28 days following Season 1’s premiere. Founded in Paris in 2009, Paris-based Vestiaire Collective is a certified B Corp that operates in 70 countries and specializes in luxury fashion items sold peer-to-peer.
“This partnership isn’t just about visibility; it’s about positioning our brand within a cultural phenomenon that resonates with our target demographic,” said Samina Virk, U.S. CEO of Vestiaire Collective. “By being featured in a show like ‘Emily in Paris,’ we’re able to reach consumers who are highly interested in luxury fashion but may not be fully aware of the benefits of shopping pre-loved.”
According to the company, the placement in the show was a paid opportunity. “As we grow our presence in the United States, we are always in partnership conversations, both paid and organic, with brands that can help us grow our awareness,” said a representative. “It was important for us to pick a show that felt authentic to our brand, and Netflix presented us with a concept and storyline that was relatable and would resonate with our core demographic.” Vestiaire declined to share its investment in the partnership.
The timing of this partnership is strategic, with Vestiaire Collective aiming to tap into consumers’ increasing interests in sustainable fashion and more budget-friendly luxury pieces. According to a 2023 study by the Business of Fashion and McKinsey, 67% of consumers consider sustainability an important factor when making purchasing decisions. On the economic front, inflation and rising living costs continue to impact consumer behavior. A survey by the Federal Reserve in April 2024 revealed that nearly 40% of U.S. households reported financial strain, leading many consumers to seek more affordable options.
“This collaboration allows us to showcase how easy it is to sell on our platform and, more importantly, it emphasizes the value of extending the life cycle of luxury items,” said Virk.
Vestiaire Collective is the only resale platform promoting the financial benefits of shopping and selling on resale platforms. For example, the U.K.-based resale and rental platform By Rotation advertises the amount of money consumers can make by offering their unworn pieces for resale or rental. According to UK publication I News, a By Rotation member who began renting out her high-end dresses in April 2023 earned £1,000 ($1,270) by the end of that summer and £10,600 ($13,492) by the end of the year.
To maximize the business impact of its exposure on the show and encourage new users to list their items, Vestiaire Collective has temporarily removed all of its seller fees. Seller fees range from 15-25% of the sale price, depending on the item’s value and the region where it is sold. The fee structure varies based on specific promotions and a seller’s status.
“We’ve seen a 30% increase in U.S. seller listings since we soft-launched this [no-fee] initiative in January,” Virk noted. “And with the added visibility from [the show], we’re projecting even greater growth.”
Brands are increasingly using entertainment as a vehicle for marketing and consumer engagement. For its part, Balmain created a Western-inspired capsule collection for the series “The Harder They Fall,” released in November 2021, which was later sold via Farfetch and the Netflix Shop. In August 2021, Balmain collaborated with Channel 4’s mini-series “Fracture” by integrating its fashion into the show’s narrative.
“We are seeing a shift in how consumers interact with fashion,” Virk said. “Content is driving purchasing decisions more than ever before, and being part of that content — whether it’s through a TV show, a film or a digital campaign — gives brands like ours a significant advantage.”
In June 2021, Netflix launched the online Netflix Shop, which sells branded merchandise from its series, including “Emily in Paris,” providing another example of a media-meets-commerce play. In 2025, Netflix plans to open brick-and-mortar locations featuring merchandise, themed restaurants, live entertainment and immersive experiences based on popular Netflix shows. By offering fans the opportunity to purchase items inspired by their favorite shows, Netflix and its partner brands are creating new revenue streams while also deepening consumer loyalty.
Over the last year, Vestiaire has launched marketing campaigns including “Think First, Buy Second” to bring attention to the amount of fashion waste the industry produces.
“Our goal is to be the leading destination for buying and selling luxury and designer secondhand fashion,” Virk said.
In January, as it worked toward an IPO, Vestiaire Collective launched a crowdfunding campaign to support its continued growth and expansion, specifically focusing on enhancing its platform and services to meet increasing consumer demand for pre-loved luxury fashion. As of January 2024, the company aimed to achieve profitability by the year’s end, and by June 2024, its annual revenue had reached $750 million. CEO Max Bittner said he will delay pursuing an IPO until the company becomes profitable. The company saw 25% revenue growth in 2023, showing a slowdown compared to the prior two years.
Izipizi’s first US CEO on building a sales team and distribution
Jonathan Crespo, appointed North American CEO of the French eyewear brand Izipizi on August 12, is set to lead the brand’s expansion into the competitive U.S. market with a strategy that emphasizes careful, deliberate growth.
“My philosophy, especially at the start, is to move slow to go fast,” Crespo said. “From day one, my top priority has been to assemble an unstoppable, seasoned sales team — professionals who understand not only the eyewear market but also the fashion and accessory markets and how they intersect.”
Crespo formerly spent 17 years at luxury eyewear brand Oliver Peoples, where he oversaw customer service and large-scale operations management. “These two skills — outstanding customer service and the ability to scale operations — are essential for achieving success,” he said, adding that his established relationships with key retailers and department stores across the U.S. and Canada will be instrumental in driving Izipizi’s growth.
Izipizi, a B-Corp brand known for its high-end design and affordable pricing, is already a well-loved brand in Europe. Its frames are featured in global retailers including Paris’s Le Bon Marché; London’s Harrods and Selfridges; the MoMA, Dover Street Market and Bloomingdale’s in New York; and Tokyo’s Isetan. The brand does not share revenue numbers.
The brand offers a wide array of eyewear, from corrective reading glasses to sunglasses for both kids and adults, with prices starting at just $50. Crespo said that while Izipizi may appear to be a mass-market brand, it avoids the pitfalls often associated with that category. “Our commitment to innovation ensures that we’re always looking forward and staying ahead,” he said. “We focus on the big picture and have a strategic vision planned through 2028.”
In North America, Izipizi will take a highly selective distribution approach. “We began our journey at the iconic Colette in Paris, and now we’re focusing on finding similar high-quality partners in the U.S,” he said. The brand is not only targeting top retailers, but it’s also engaging with small businesses that share its customer base. The plan is to eventually open branded stores across the U.S. and Canada, Crespo said.
“We are now investing significantly in the U.S. market — a step that has always been part of the founders’ vision,” he said.
Acquisitions
On August 13, branded resale platform Trove announced the acquisition of competitor Recurate, marking a significant consolidation in the branded resale space that broadens Trove’s market share. CEO Terry Boyle said the acquisition was particularly attractive due to Recurate’s leading technology, experienced team and strong roster of brand clients. “By teaming up with Recurate, we’re positioned nicely to accelerate growth and innovation in the space,” Boyle told Glossy.
With the acquisition, Trove now commands over 75% of branded resale traffic and adds peer-to-peer trade-in capabilities and a Shopify integration to its platform. Boyle said Trove’s brands can launch its programs in as little as four weeks.
“We hope by creating a one-stop shop for branded resale programs, brands can focus more on what their program should look like and the business outcomes they want to drive,” said Boyle. “Ultimately, we want to provide our clients with options and advice to build the resale program that makes the most sense for them.” Trove’s current clients include Steve Madden and Michael Kors.
Earnings
- Capri Holdings, the parent company of Michael Kors, Versace and Jimmy Choo, reported a 12% decline in sales for the most recent quarter, excluding currency fluctuations, on August 9. In a statement, chairman and CEO John Idol expressed disappointment in the results, citing weakened global demand for luxury fashion. The company is focusing on managing expenses and inventory levels in response to the challenging global retail environment. The company did not hold an earnings call.
- On August 13, running brand On Holding AG reported a record-breaking second quarter of 2024, with net sales reaching CHF 567.7 million ($635 million), up 27.8% year-over-year. The company’s growth was driven by strong performance across regions and products, particularly in Asia-Pacific and apparel, which grew by 73.7% and 63%, respectively. On’s gross profit margin also improved, reaching 59.9%, thanks to high full-price sales and lower freight costs. According to the earnings statement, the brand’s continued momentum is being fueled by its multi-channel strategy, product innovations like LightSpray technology, which it debuted during the Olympics, and high-profile partnerships, including its recent collaboration with Zendaya.
Executive Moves
- Victoria’s Secret has appointed Hillary Super, the former CEO of Savage x Fenty, as its new CEO, effective September 9, to lead the brand’s high-profile transformation and drive growth in North America.
- Fashion brand Akris has appointed Jimmy Yeh as CEO of the Americas. Succeeding Peter Herink, Yeh will lead the brand’s U.S. retail expansion and enhance its marketing efforts. Yeh has experience leading American markets for Dolce & Gabbana and Louis Vuitton.
Inside Glossy’s coverage
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