At London and New York Fashion Weeks, international brands sharpened their U.S. strategies.
In London, AK/OK found a stage to showcase Indian craft to a global audience, and Rixo returned to the catwalk for its 10-year anniversary while expanding its U.S. wholesale base. And in New York, Maltese designer Luke Azzopardi made his stateside runway debut to court private clients. Together, the moves underscored how fashion weeks are doubling as launchpads for international sales.
Founded in 2021 as a joint venture between Anamika Khanna and Isha Ambani’s Reliance Brands, AK/OK presented at London Fashion Week for the first time. The line, priced from $200 cotton separates to $1,000 lace dresses, offers a modern wardrobe with Indian savoir-faire. The brand runs three stores in India, sells through 15 multibrand retailers and recently entered Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S.
“We wanted to make a brand out of India that not just remained Indian, but also had its wings spread to the rest of the world,” Khanna said. “London came as a natural choice. We have always found London more receptive and open to different cultures, ideas and fashion.”
Less craft-intensive than traditional Indian apparel, AK/OK uses India’s techniques along with an automated supply chain to deliver at competitive prices. “We have this incredible heritage of art, craft and textile that can’t be matched by anybody,” she said. “At the same time, it’s important to stay relevant.”
AK/OK’s choice of Hamleys toy store as its show venue tied to that balance. “In a way, you’re bringing memories into present-day scenarios, and it felt like a natural fit,” Khanna said. The Ambani’s bought Hamleys in 2019.
British label Rixo, founded in 2015 by Orlagh McCloskey and Henrietta Rix, returned to the runway after a two-year break, celebrating its 10th anniversary with a Liberty fabrics collaboration. “Ten years feels like a pivotal moment,” Rix said. “We’ve had Brexit, we’ve had Covid, we’ve had tariffs. We thought, ‘Actually, we’ve done a lot coming from the living room — and 10 years is a real moment to celebrate and get our community together again.’”
The milestone capped a year of change for the brand, with a refreshed identity, a new U.K. store in Westbourne Grove and the opening of a New York location. For the first time, Rixo brought its wholesale sales team in-house, before going on to show its Spring 2026 collection at its SoHo courtyard. Its U.S. wholesale presence has grown to include Saks, Revolve, Shopbop and Elyse Walker, with the newest accounts being Anthropologie and independent retailers in Dallas, Austin, Charleston and Aspen.
“Independent specialty stores are a real new focus,” Rix said. “It feels like going back to the brand’s roots — people can discover Rixo in a way that feels like a find.”
American shoppers are shaping the mix. “The New York girl is chicer, and she loves black,” Rix said. “She comes to Rixo and she’s buying a black dress.” Rent the Runway has also become a discovery pipeline. “Wedding guest dresses will always be our strength, but jewelry and separates are picking up, too.”
Rixo dresses sell for $300–$600, with coats priced at around $600. “Our U.S. buyers want the multi-use dress,” Rix said. “It’s not strictly occasionwear, and it’s not just beachwear. It sits in the middle, which is what Rixo does really well.”
For Maltese designer Luke Azzopardi, New York Fashion Week marked a first U.S. outing for his demi-couture brand. Founded in 2017, his Valletta atelier produces everything in-house, from scarves to gowns. Ready-to-wear ranges from $385 silk blouses to $3,800 gowns.
“The decision to come to New York started with a conversation I had with Christian Siriano,” Azzopardi said. “He told me, ‘I think people in New York will love this because it’s couture enough, but it doesn’t scare people away.’”
Exclusivity is central. “We do everything at the studio, and even the sample pieces get sold. It’s like inviting people inside your maison,” he said. His clients are collectors and young professionals who value discretion. “Our logo doesn’t appear anywhere on our garments. … It’s all about silent marketing.”
Other labels have proven the playbook works: Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard grew from hosting London presentations to selling at U.S. retailers including Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom, while Jacquemus and Loewe leveraged runway storytelling to scale in the U.S. For today’s new wave, the path is familiar: focused shows, the right partners and turning U.S. demand into global momentum.
How high-end niche jewelry brands entered the LFW conversation
With global sales topping $330 billion and projected steady growth, jewelry has become one of luxury’s most resilient categories. That commercial weight was on full display at London Fashion Week, where The Ouze, Octi and Completedworks staged theatrical, story-driven presentations that positioned jewelry as the headline act rather than a supporting accessory.
The Ouze, founded by Toby Vernon in 2021, has become one of the most-watched new jewelry brands in the U.K., stocked at Harrods, Liberty, Ssense and international boutiques. Its LFW presentation, “Proof of Life,” unfolded as lived-in scenes where jewelry appeared in everyday settings. “It’s an incredible opportunity to showcase more conceptual ideas and create an event that is more about atmosphere or mood rather than focusing only on the product,” Vernon said.
The U.S. is a growing priority for the brand. “America is about 20% of our DTC customers, but we didn’t have any stockists,” Vernon said. “So this year, we did a pop-up in New York at the retailer Colbo. That went really well, and now we’re stocking with them.”
Octi, founded in 2020 and stocked at H Lorenzo in Los Angeles and Ssense, staged “The Rocks,” an installation inspired by the U.K.’s Jurassic Coast. The brand’s pieces range from $250-$900.
Completedworks, founded in 2013 by Anna Jewsbury, leaned into theatre. Its Spring show, “The Gift,” starred Jerry Hall in a séance-inspired performance. Known for sculptural forms made from recycled and renewable materials, the brand has around 100 stockists worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market New York, Net-a-Porter and Ssense.
“Jewelry is valuable, it’s an investment,” Vernon said. “If you can see the artisan, the nuance and the story, it adds to the value.” And it is a growing segment. According to a report from consultancy firm McKinsey, fine jewelry and watches generate over $330 billion globally, with jewelry alone set to grow 3-4% annually and branded jewelry expanding at 8-12% CAGR through 2025.
For London’s emerging jewelers, the formula mirrors that in ready-to-wear: story-driven shows, key retailers as an essential sales channel and U.S. demand fueling growth.
