Björn Axén, the Swedish luxury hair-care brand established in 1963, is making its move into the U.K. market this season. Known for its premium products, innovative formulations and royal fans, the brand has been in growth mode over the past three years.
Björn Axén has been expanding its presence across Europe with retail partners in the Netherlands, Germany and Spain. It reached $7 million in sales in 2023. Its products, from hair care to tools, range in price from $15-$50. Prior to 2021, its products were sold exclusively in Sweden plus online in the Nordics and Switzerland.
CEO and owner Johan Hellström views the UK as an important market in the brand’s global expansion. Other Swedish beauty brands including Verso Skincare, Sachajuan hair care and Byredo have been selling throughout Europe and in the U.K. for years, and influencer-led Caia expanded to the U.K. in 2023.
“The British people are known for their taste and setting high standards, so it’s a great fit for our brand,” Hellström said. Björn Axén products will be available via U.K. retailers online by the end of 2024 and in-store by 2025. He declined to name stores as negotiations are still in progress.
Influencers with younger audiences will be central to the brand’s U.K. launch strategy, mirroring its successful marketing in other European markets. “In the Netherlands, we partnered with influencers, and when they boosted our products, they sold out almost immediately,” Hellström said.
In the Netherlands, Björn Axén sells through the Dutch retailer Etos, which has placed the brand in numerous stores across the country. “We’re in so many stores in the Netherlands through our partnership with Etos, and it’s been a fantastic success,” Hellström added.
The brand was one of the first in the industry to focus on the scalp and the “skinification” of hair care, which have been its focus since its launch. “Our promise is always to be kind to you and the skin,” said Hellström. “We dermatologically test every product. When we do consumer tests, it’s not with 10-15 people for a week, it’s with 100 people for a month. We put down a lot of money on clinical and consumer tests to ensure our products deliver.” The brand invests around 300,000 Swedish crowns, or $27,000, in testing for each product.
Hellström has long used Björn Axén products when doing hair for the fashion shows of Iris Van Herpen, Stéphane Rolland, Robert Wun and Emilia Wickstead, among others. Stéphane Rolland also created looks for Zendaya during the first “Dune” premiere tour, which garnered significant attention.
“We’ve been a part of the haute couture scene in Paris for years, working closely with some of the best designers in the world,” Hellström said. “These partnerships allow us to demonstrate our expertise at the highest level of the industry and resonate with a global audience.”
Björn Axén has served the Swedish royals since the 1976, styling their hair every day and for formal events, leading to its royal warrant in 1984.
In Ukraine, one of its new markets, the success is also paying off. “We’ve already generated 9-10 million SEK ($810,000-$900,000) in sales, [in Ukraine]” Hellström said.
Björn Axén’s international growth has included the Chinese market, which it entered last year through a distributor, Si Young. The brand has expanded its presence on major Chinese platforms like Tmall and Red. “In China, we work closely with key opinion leaders to drive awareness and sales. We’re seeing steady growth and have a bright future there,” said Hellström.
Based on surveys, in the Nordics, 9 out of 10 customers repurchase from the brand. And in China, the brand has a satisfaction rate of 93%, Hellström said.
According to a June report by market research company Technavio, the global hair-care market is estimated to grow to $15.25 billion from 2024-2028, with a compound annual growth rate of over 3.2%.
