This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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For over five decades, Norma Kamali has been at the forefront of innovation in fashion, from pioneering digital retail in the 1990s to integrating AI into the design process today.
Kamali’s latest collection, which debuted at New York Fashion Week this month, marks a return to her signature aesthetic, characterized by sleek designs, unique layering and modern interpretations of 20th-century silhouettes. The collection also drew inspiration from Bob Dylan’s style. Kamali’s fascination with Dylan, sparked by a Martin Scorsese documentary, influenced the styling, which incorporated black and brown fedoras with feathers, reminiscent of Dylan’s iconic look.
But in past seasons, Kamali has taken a more tech-forward approach, including by leveraging AI: In October 2023, she partnered with Maison Meta to develop a proprietary AI model trained on her archives. And in February 2024, she showcased AI-generated designs in an installation dubbed “Fashion Hallucinations.” According to Kamali, AI is set to shape the industry’s approach to archiving and to facilitate creative longevity.
Following New York Fashion Week, Kamali joined Glossy international fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska on the Glossy Podcast to discuss her latest collection, the role of technology in fashion and the future of her brand, which includes new category expansions.
Below are some highlights from the conversation, which have been edited for clarity.
Choosing a presentation format over a runway show
“It felt like the right way to introduce people to the collection. There’s a certain intimacy in a presentation where you can really engage with the designs up close. I wanted people to experience the textures, the layers, the movement — that gets lost in the spectacle of a big runway show. There’s also this shift happening in how designers think about showing their work. The traditional fashion calendar is changing and so are the ways we present. For me, this was about giving people the time and space to absorb the details rather than rushing through a high-energy runway moment.”
AI’s potential to preserve a designer’s legacy
“The archive is huge, and when you think about brands that have disappeared after a designer leaves, it makes you wonder, ‘Can AI help carry on that creative DNA? Or does it dilute the essence of a designer’s work?’ The key is in how the archive is structured and whether AI can truly interpret and build upon that history in an authentic way. I’ve been the sole creative force behind my brand for decades, and I can see the value of AI in organizing and preserving that legacy. But at the same time, creativity isn’t just about data and patterns. There’s an emotional, instinctual part of the process that I don’t think AI can replicate. The industry is still figuring this out, and I’m curious to see how it evolves. If used thoughtfully, it could be an incredible tool rather than something that replaces creativity altogether.”
Expanding to new product categories
“There’s always something new in the works. We’ve been revisiting the sleeping bag coat and seeing how it can evolve. It’s one of those pieces that has lived many lives, and there are so many ways to take it forward. Beyond that, we’re looking at new ways to integrate technology into fashion — not just in design, but in how customers experience and interact with the brand globally. We’re also thinking about longevity in fashion: What does it mean to create something that lasts, both in terms of quality and cultural relevance? That’s the focus right now: making pieces that people will love, wear, and keep for a long time.”
