This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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On this week’s Milan Fashion Week edition of the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska is joined by Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director at Bloomingdale’s, for a buyer’s perspective on the Fall 2026 collections.
The week included major creative director debuts and strong showings from heritage Italian houses, including Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Fendi. Major creative director debuts included Demna’s first runway show at Gucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s return to Fendi and Meryll Rogge’s debut at Marni as brands navigate a slower luxury market and rising pressures on multi-brand retail. The Fall 2026 calendar included 52 runway shows and 89 presentations, highlighting a moment of creative transition for Milan’s biggest houses.
Here are three key takeaways, in Galante Frank’s words, lightly edited for clarity.
The standout shows at Milan Fashion Week
Galante Frank: “Prada was definitely my standout favorite. It’s always the show so many of us look forward to every season. What I loved this time was the focus on layering and styling. They had 15 models and each walked four times, removing a layer each time. It felt like they were showing us how the clothes actually come to life in reality and how a customer might wear them. It’s honestly shocking that this hasn’t been done before, because it’s the way so many of us dress. And more broadly, this season was exciting because there were so many debuts. It was interesting to see how Demna approached Gucci differently, showing a much more body-conscious, sexy collection than the oversized silhouettes he’s known for.”
How retailers balance runway creativity with real-world demand
Galante Frank: “At Bloomingdale’s, our clients love everything from these Italian design houses: ready-to-wear, accessories and even beauty. When we’re building the assortment, it’s really about partnership with the brand and finding the balance between pieces that feel editorial and exciting from a runway perspective and those our customer could walk out of the show wearing today. The perfect assortment is somewhere in the middle. Another important part of that equation today is the VIC client — they’ve really been changing the business. Sometimes we even have clients traveling with us to shows, and it’s incredible to see their reaction in real time when they see a coat or dress and immediately say, ‘I need that.’ That moment really shows the journey from runway to reality.”
The key categories shaping next season
Galante Frank: “There was a ton of beautiful tailoring this season. Bottega Veneta is a great example. On the runway, you might see a huge coat, but when you go to the re-see and look underneath, there are incredible layers, like beautiful blazers and skirts. Texture was also a big theme across Milan. I sometimes say to my team that it’s about creating a ‘non-solid solid’, like taking a black dress and adding a feather trim, which gives the customer something more exciting while still keeping it wearable. That’s why you’ll see a lot of shearling, faux fur and feathers in stores next season. It all plays into the client’s desire to express personal style and mix pieces together while still feeling comfortable.”
