In this edition of the Glossy+ Research Briefing, we analyze why designer participation in NYFW has been decreasing in recent years, including the increasing costs of participating and brands shifting shows to other locations.
Declining participation in NYFW indicates a “vibe shift” in the city’s garment industry
Questions about the decline of the garment business in New York City dominated headlines last year. Publications like the New York Post and Teen Vogue discussed an apparent “vibe shift” in the city’s fashion industry, which lost more than 50,000 jobs — a 30% decrease — over the past decade. The conversation even hit the blogs on Substack, such as this post from Barefaced that asked: “Is New York Fashion Week…Dead?”
Strictly looking at the number of designers who have been taking part in New York Fashion Week, participation is declining. According to press releases from the Council of Fashion Designers of America that provide preliminary show schedules ahead of NYFW, the number of participating designers continues to decrease. This year, the lowest number of designers since February 2023 has been confirmed, with only 54 designers expected to participate next month.
According to NSS Magazine, NYFW may be less appealing than it used to be to designers who have lost the extreme luxury audience. For instance, although Ralph Lauren has increased its sales by catering to budget-conscious shoppers, its public perception has shifted away from that of an ultra-luxury brand. To enhance its all-American image, Ralph Lauren has found opportunities to showcase its apparel outside of the NYFW calendar, such as a show in the Hamptons last September.
Another reason for decreased NYFW participation may be because of the financial burden placed on small and independent designers in order to showcase their products at NYFW. According to insights New York-based show producer Christina Neault shared with the Fashion Network, fashion shows cost at least $25,000 to produce, and small-to-medium-sized brands can expect to pay between $100,000 and $250,000. There also has been industry criticism about the lack of support young designers receive when putting on these expensive shows.
While some heritage brands are pivoting away from NYFW and providing openings for smaller brands to fill, many smaller brands struggle to fill those vacant opportunities — hence a decrease in designer participation overall.
