On May 15, executives from Kering and Diesel served as judges in the recycled materials competition Challenge the Fabric, an event focused on sustainability and material innovation in the fashion and textile industry.
In addition to the competition, the two-day event promoted collaboration by bringing together the entire supply chain involved in man-made cellulosic fibers. Organized by sales organization Ekman Group and the Swedish Fashion Council, the event also featured keynotes, panel discussions and exhibitions highlighting the latest sustainable textile developments.
For Kering and Diesel, this opportunity further promoted their goal to push material innovation development despite the financial risks as the industry gets serious about new material developments.
Kering has been working in the material innovation space since establishing the Material Innovation Lab in 2013. “The lab’s role is to support brands and suppliers in transitioning towards our sustainability targets,” said Caterina Tonda, ready-to-wear sustainable development manager at Kering’s MIL.
According to the Material Innovation Initiative’s fourth state of the industry report, the next-generation innovative materials industry saw an 8.6% increase in investment funding last year, significantly outperforming the general market. This year’s CTF winner, fashion designer Yakubu Stapleton, said, “On an industrial level, material innovation offers designers the opportunity to continue creating freely and in harmony with the world around them.”
Since its founding, MIL has been instrumental in reducing Kering’s environmental impact. Through this program, Kering is aiming to achieve 100% sustainable sourcing for key raw materials and reduce absolute greenhouse gas emissions by 40% across its value chain by 2025.
Tonda emphasized collaboration and quality as crucial factors in material innovation research and deployment. MIL works closely with Kering’s brands and suppliers across the supply chain. They focus on materials including cotton, wool and synthetics. “We work on different types of recycled materials to elevate the recycled content in products,” said Tonda.
When Kering introduces new materials to its supply chain, they undergo rigorous testing and validation to ensure they meet Kering’s high standards before integration. This comprehensive approach, however, comes with a time constraint. Developing and adopting innovative materials like regenerative fibers can take up to a year, Tonda said. Tonda declined to disclose Kering’s total investment in material innovation. The company has invested in material innovation companies like Mogu, which raised $12 million in its January funding round.
“[A year] was the average timeframe to assess the program, to understand how it’s structured and create a sourcing scenario with the innovator or the solution provider,” she said.
She also highlighted the importance of a quality co-creation process involving cross-functional teams within the brands and with suppliers. “The most significant challenge is having the time and the right group to work with,” she said.
At Diesel, the approach to innovative material innovation focuses on integrating sustainable practices into core materials, particularly denim and leather alongside other material innovations. The company prioritizes using regenerative, organic and recycled cotton, while also exploring bio-compound leather and other innovative materials.
Andrea Rosso, sustainability ambassador at Diesel, highlighted scalability as a major challenge. “Our biggest challenge is treatment and processing, ensuring sustainability and innovative technology on the processing part at scale,” said Rosso. For example, cotton, an important fiber for Diesel, is sourced from regenerative, organic and recycled sources.
Rosso said, “Scalability of sustainable materials is a challenge; they must fit into our supply chain and be scalable.” Like Kering, which explores a wider range of materials, Diesel prioritizes integrating a wide range of sustainable options like cotton and leather replacements into their existing processes, as well as recycled polyester.
Sourcing cotton for all brands in the industry is difficult due to environmental and ethical concerns, including high water usage, pesticide dependency and labor issues like forced labor in certain regions including Xinjiang. Additionally, meeting sustainability standards and ensuring traceability in the supply chain adds to the complexity and cost of sourcing cotton responsibly.
Both Kering and Diesel said they prioritize transparency and consumer education. “Communicating sustainability needs to be engaging and not boring, reflecting the brand’s attitude,” Rosso said. Internally, Diesel implements educational programs to foster a responsible mindset among employees. To educate consumers, on April 24, Diesel released the docuseries “Diesel Behind the Denim” on its site.
While Kering and Diesel may have different approaches, their participation in Challenge the Fabric underscores their shared commitment to innovation. This annual competition specifically focuses on recycled materials, encouraging the development of sustainable alternatives within the fashion industry — a goal that aligns with both Kering and Diesel’s long-term strategies.
