This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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New York Fashion Week Spring 2027 was a memorable one. Between the return of several big-name designers and the controversy involving the CEO of the CFDA, there was much to discuss.
On the Glossy Podcast this week, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff discuss six of the biggest new things they saw at NYFW this season.
Steven Kolb vs. PETA
Activists from the animal rights group PETA disrupted a Cos show on Sunday, leading to CFDA CEO Steven Kolb getting into a physical altercation with one of the protestors. Kolb has since apologized and been put on leave by the organization, an event that overshadowed much of the rest of the week’s festivities.
“It’s a bit ironic because this is actually the first season in which NYFW is not promoting any fur on the runway,” Parisi said. “And Kolb was a big part of that.”
The return of accessibility
Both hosts noticed a much more accessible runway. There were fewer outlandish looks and sky-high prices and a greater emphasis on clothing that anyone could wear without needing to be on the cutting edge of avant-garde fashion. Manoff cited graphic tees at the Campillo show and denim at the Retrofête show as examples.
“I don’t know if you want ot call it wearability or practicality, but things seemed a little bit more casual,” Manoff said. “To me, that read as accessible. Maybe it’s a sign of the times in terms of the economy, but more brands were offering something that you would probably wear in real life.”
Old meets new
There was a proliferation of older clothing on the runways. Tanner Fletcher showed its collection alongside carefully sourced vintage clothing. Sanderlak, meanwhile, showed its new collection with pieces from its recent collections mixed in. EBay, which has had a presence at NYFW for several seasons now, continues to bring in big-name designers like Willy Chavarria, who contribute archival pieces to the show.
“It better reflects how people actually dress,” Parisi said. “You’re not only buying new things, and you’re not only buying from one brand.”
More storytelling
Manoff noted that more shows felt immersive, with a greater emphasis on telling the story behind the collection. That could mean showing the inspiration behind the collection, hearing the designer’s voice speaking about each look as it comes down the runway, as Theory did this season, or hosting the show in the brand’s own design workshop.
“It was much more built out than in past seasons,” Manoff said. “Instead of just clothes on a rack, it felt like the designers were painting a picture of the lifestyle of the brand.”
A bustling party scene
NYFW has always been host to afterparties, but this season felt like there were a lot more official parties on the books. Many of those parties were hosted by brands that weren’t necessarily doing shows, but did have a reason to ingratiate themselves with the local fashion scene.
“I wonder if it’s that a lot of brands are new to the New York area, newly opened stores here, and they’re trying to embed themselves in the local fashion community and get to know the people who, hopefully, will be shopping at their store,” Parisi said.
A little something more
Manoff said it felt like brands were going the extra mile for attendees, offering unique experiences and creature comforts beyond the typical fashion week fare.
“Coach had their big 85th anniversary show, and they let some editors carry bags from the collection to the show, they had snacks and olives at the tables for the attendees,” Manoff said. “They had shrimp towers. At the Retrofête show, they gave everyone lychee martinis. It felt very loungey and like they were doing something extra.”
