This week, a look at eyewear brand Selima Optique’s strategy for creating sell-out glasses in collaboration with the Oscar-winning film “Poor Things.” Plus, the trends inspired by Beyoncé’s “Cowboy Carter” album and the executive shifts announced this week.
Shoes, bags and … eyewear? The glasses category has rapidly grown in recent years, and geeky glasses are set to be among the trends of the year, thanks to Bella Hadid and TikTok. The eyewear market is currently estimated to be worth $35 billion, according to Statista, and the luxury segment is expected to reach $56 billion by 2033, per retail intelligence company Fact.MR.
For some eyewear brands, like New York-based Selima Optique, growth has been fueled by entertainment partnerships. Over the last 10 years, 31-year-old Selima Optique has made custom frames for Ryan Gosling in “Drive,” and the brand has created custom frames worn by Michael Jackson and Rihanna during performances. The brand’s owner and designer, Selima Salaun, declined to share the company’s revenue and growth figures.
Selima Optique’s latest film collaboration was with the 2024 Oscar-winning film “Poor Things.” The limited-edition Victorian-inspired eyewear collection, with just 50 total pieces offered for sale, was based on Emma Stone’s character. The glasses were priced at $580 and sold out almost immediately when launched on March 14.
Salaun pointed to actor Steve McQueen for popularizing the link between eyewear and film. He made eyewear brand Persol famous by wearing a pair of frames in “The Thomas Crown Affair.”
LVMH is also delving more into entertainment-focused partnerships. In February, LVMH launched entertainment division 22 Montaigne Entertainment. LVMH’s North America chairman and CEO Anish Melwani said its projects will include films and collaborations.
According to Salaun, Selima Optique’s unique designs are what inspire film costume designers to initiate collaborations. Comparatively, industry leader Luxottica and LVMH’s Thélios focus on more standard frames, she said.
“Films are much more impactful than we think,” said Salaun. “With ‘Poor Things,’ we’ve been bombarded by emails and requests from clients for unique frames.”
The brand’s rapid production of styles in limited quantities has also proven a selling point for collaborators. For the “Poor Things” collaboration, Salaun said she “pulled strings” to turn out the collection in six weeks versus the usual six months. “We have a bespoke atelier in Paris, and we are hoping to set it up in New York soon,” she said. “It allows us to produce very small editions quite quickly.”
Other high-end brands are also leveraging film collaborations to drive sales. J.Hannah jewelry collaborated with independent entertainment company A24 on a $400 locket for its “Priscilla” film in 2023. And watchmaker Hamilton partnered with prop master Doug Harlocker to create a $2,800 “Dune: Part Two” watch in February. On a related note, actor Timothée Chalamet designed a Cartier Dune necklace to wear to the “Dune: Part Two” premiere.
Film collaborations can drive huge fan engagement. After Selima Optique’s “Poor Things” style won the Accessories Council’s “Eyewear, the Ultimate Accessory” award on March 16, bodyguards at the event had a tough time protecting the frames from being stolen, Salaun said.
Other factors driving the brand’s growth include the widespread workforce shift to working from home. “People don’t want to wear the same [frames] each time they have a [Zoom] call,” she said.
In addition, she said, customers are willing to pay more for unique frames. Selima Optique’s styles typically sell for $300-$500. When the brand recently increased its prices by $50, owed to inflation, it had no impact on sales.
Selima Optique promoted the “Poor Things” collaboration in its four NYC stores through displays and a limited-edition tote bag gift with purchase.
Fashion brand collaborations have also been growing in eyewear, with Maison Margiela x Gentle Monster launching on March 9 and Ahluwalia x Ace & Tate debuting on March 19.
Celebrity investment
British shoe company Løci announced on April 2 that rapper Nicki Minaj has invested an undisclosed amount in the brand, joining actor Leonardo DiCaprio as its second celebrity investor.
The brand will introduce a limited-edition Løci x Nicki Minaj sneaker line on April 12. The collection will feature 11 color options of five unisex styles, each crafted from the brand’s bio-leather made from a composite of non-food-grade corn and recycled fabrics. Prices for the collection will range from $189-$215. According to exclusive insights from the brand, it has sold over 100,000 pairs of shoes and is set to close 2024 with 320% revenue growth. It plans to expand into apparel and open its own retail location within the next year.
Executive moves
On April 3, Stockholm-based Acne Studios announced the appointment of Hendrik Bitterschulte as its new chief financial officer. His role commences on May 2.
The same day, Kering announced Mélanie Flouquet as the company’s chief strategy officer and Armelle Poulou as its chief financial officer, effective immediately. Women now represent 46% of Kerings’s 13-member executive committee.
Tarak Ramzan, founder of Glasgow-based Quiz Clothing, stepped down as CEO on March 28 as part of an ongoing review and turnaround for the brand led by non-executive chairman Peter Cowgill.
Stats of the week
Brands are about to see a growth in sales of cowboy-related apparel and accessories as Beyoncé’s “Cowboy Carter” album is set to be the biggest music release of the year. According to April 2 data from retail intelligence company Edited, here are the top Western trends to know.
- The popularity of denim shirts is already evident, with sales increasing 119% year-over-year. In menswear, short-sleeved checked versions are gaining momentum, with a 27% rise compared to 2023.
- Jeans continue to be a staple in Western-inspired fashion. So far this year, sales of wide-fit options for women have increased 83% year-over-year, while baggy jeans are accounting for 26% of menswear sellouts.
- Louis Vuitton’s and Molly Goddard’s runway shows for spring 2024 included floral Western-inspired knitwear, as well as chocolate brown tones, suede and checked shirts.
Inside Glossy’s coverage
Universal Standard is proving size representation can translate to profitability.
The 1916 Company’s new CEO is focusing on stores and low inventory.
After earning $100 million in 2023 revenue, Manchester-based Represent is opening its first retail location in L.A.
Other news to know
Phoebe Philo is making her brick-and-mortar debut at Bergdorf Goodman.
PVH, which owns Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, saw shares drop 22% after its earnings announcement.
In his first interview, Prada CEO Gianfranco D’Attis shared the brand’s renewed focus on exclusivity and retail.
The owners of Saks Fifth Avenue are raising financing.
Reportedly, Shein’s profits doubled to $2 billion in 2023.