Despite recent evidence to the contrary, the celebrity-beloved handbag brand Aupen is decidedly not dead. In fact, it’s just become a first-of-its-kind partner of LVMH.
Rather than an acquisition or a traditional financial investment, LVMH’s backing of the brand will be based on resources through its Métiers d’Art initiative, as announced on Wednesday. Launched in 2015 to preserve traditional craftsmanship and best-in-class manufacturing techniques, LVMH Métiers d’Art has since made several acquisitions to build out a portfolio of heritage companies specializing in metalworking, textile production and tanning, among other trades.
“For a normal brand, it’s really hard to establish the relationships [needed] to work with the best-in-class Parisian craftsmen and factories, because they’re all owned and monopolized by Hermès, Chanel or LV,” said Nick Tan, Aupen’s head of operations and communications. “Getting the access and the advisory to be able to craft higher-quality items is the main [benefit] of this partnership.”
Launched with a direct-to-consumer model in late 2022, Aupen and its distinctive, minimalist bags quickly gained popularity for being carried by “it” girls including Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber. In May 2024, the brand appeared to announce its closure when it deleted all but three of its Instagram posts, with one stating, “Aupen Design Collective bids goodbye.” At the time, however, a representative told Glossy that the brand, which at the time was operating in NYC and Singapore, was merely “taking a break” from producing new styles to promote timeless design and conscious consumption.
In a Glossy-exclusive emailed statement, an LVMH Métiers d’Art representative said, “Aupen’s bold designs align with our long-term vision for LVMH Métiers d’Art with an emphasis on traceability and transparency, and speaking to conscientious luxury consumers.” The company declined to comment on its manufacturing facilities’ capacity.
Though talks with LVMH, among other suitors, started during Aupen’s business pause, Tan said the break came first and the outside investment interest was unexpected. According to Tan, the company was approached by other major European groups and private equity firms. And reportedly, Aupen met with H&M Group and Prada Group. The fact that the LVMH setup allows for brand independence clinched the deal, Tan said.
“They work in a similar way with Phoebe [Philo]” he said, though clarified, “LVMH does not own any equity in Aupen.”
Now with a robust owned supply chain in place, it seems LVMH Métiers D’Art is ramping up to become a more significant LVMH entity. According to Tan, it’s officially launching its own press department this month, and it debuted an Instagram account in February. For its part, Chanel introduced its annual Métiers d’Art show in 2002 to showcase the work of its artisans. Hermès has a version of Métiers d’Art, as well.
“I think LVMH is looking to refresh the [traditional] ‘Métiers d’Art’ concept for the younger consumer and make it modern and exciting again,” Tan said.
According to Tan, the deal was only finalized last week and Aupen has already begun working with the LVMH Métiers d’Art’s factories and artisan workshops in Paris. Along with Tanneries Roux 1803, the oldest tannery in France which also works with Louis Vuitton and Hermès, it will leverage Jade Groupe to make its bags’ hardware. Jade Groupe also works with Chanel and Schiaparelli, Tan said.
“We want to upgrade the kind and quality of the leather we are using to create true investment pieces you can pass on,” Tan said, noting that LVMH Métiers d’Art’s companies have opened his eyes to new production processes. With Tanneries Roux 1803, Aupen is currently co-developing a new leather that both feels smooth and is scratch-resistant.
Prior to starting Aupen, Tan owned a showroom that specialized in bringing contemporary American and European brands, including Altuzarra, David Koma and Cult Gaia, to the Chinese market. With Aupen, he said, he wanted to “go further into the value chain.” The company eventually sold $180-$420 bags by an anonymous collective of designers, with Tan managing operations and marketing.
Tan hinted that, moving forward, the brand will sell at a higher price point, but specifics have not been determined. Aupen formerly produced its bags in Singapore, using “simple techniques and good leather that could be better,” Tan said. Aupen will relaunch in January 2025, with its new bag styles released via the drop model.
For its original bag styles, the brand currently has a waitlist in the thousands, Tan said. He noted that Aupen saw demand for higher-quality bags from its original customers.
Aupen will retain its “digital-first” marketing strategy, as social media and “the right cool girls” allow a brand “to reach a lot of people in a short time,” Tan said. Still, the plan is to “grow organically, versus chase sales.” The brand will also remain DTC to ensure quality customer care. “Excelling in leather goods” will be prioritized ahead of expansion to other categories, Tan said.
As part of the new setup, the Aupen team will relocate to Paris. Rather than team members losing their jobs to LVMH Métiers d’Art workers, Tan said the brand will be hiring, particularly in the area of quality control.
“We aligned on our vision of creating timeless, extremely high-quality bags,” Tan said, regarding LVMH’s initial interest in Aupen. “Many brands today use a founder’s story or a certain cause or mission to attach emotion to a basic product. But they were impressed by the commercial success we’ve achieved with a product-first strategy.”
He added, “[Aupen] hopes to become a disruptive case study for how an emerging brand can start from zero and then slowly, step by step, go to the top. We want to offer a pioneering [blueprint] for future designers to survive.”
