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Fashion

Loewe’s CMO on the brand’s exhibition strategy as it opens Crafted World in Tokyo

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By Zofia Zwieglinska
Apr 2, 2025
Loewe CMO on Tokyo Crafted World

The Loewe exhibition is back — and bigger, flashier and more culturally dialed-in than ever. Following a high-profile debut in Shanghai in March 2024, the Spanish luxury house has brought the immersive experience to Tokyo’s Harajuku district to cement its presence in one of its longest-standing markets.

The exhibition, developed in collaboration with architecture firm OMA, will run from March 29 to May 11. For Loewe, it’s about showcasing nearly 180 years of craftsmanship with a playful, youthful twist.

“We’ve been in Japan for 50 years now,” said Charlie Smith, Loewe’s CMO. “Outside of Spain, it’s our second-oldest market, and we’re constantly finding new ways to connect with both loyal clients and a younger audience discovering Loewe for the first time.”

The exhibition’s rooms are divided into thematic zones, each riffing on the brand’s history — from its Spanish roots supplying leather goods to royalty in 1846 to its present-day collaborations with animation company Studio Ghibli. Tokyo-specific elements like a towering, leather-crafted Howl’s Moving Castle bag and a kitschy sticker staircase room riff on Japan’s obsession with collectibles.

“There’s a real love for whimsy and playfulness here, and we wanted to tap into that while also celebrating the heritage of our craftsmanship,” Smith said. “It’s about celebrating craft in all its forms. We want visitors to leave with a deeper appreciation of the skill and creativity that goes into every piece.”

Digital also plays a starring role in the exhibit. Loewe partnered with creative studio Stink Studios to create a companion website, craftedworld.loewe.com, which acts as a digital extension of the exhibition that is accessible worldwide, though in Japanese. On the website, visitors can build their own customized Loewe “tool bag” with stickers, monograms and colors, creating a digital keepsake that doubles as their exhibition ticket. “The Crafted World digital experience creates an extension of the exhibition, giving visitors greater context and a deeper understanding of both the Loewe brand and the items on display,” said Cameron Temple, executive creative director at Stink Studios.

The digital component is embedded within LINE, Japan’s ubiquitous social media platform, making it feel hyper-localized. Through LINE, visitors receive ticket confirmations, updates and exclusive content like behind-the-scenes videos and mini-games. “LINE is a vital part of communication here, so making the digital experience part of that ecosystem was essential,” Smith said.

In the first few days, the Tokyo exhibition racked up over 20,000 reservations. For comparison, Loewe’s Shanghai exhibition attracted over 140,000 visitors in total from March 22 to May 5. According to Smith, the brand expected 70,000 visitors ahead of the Shanghai exhibit’s launch. Rather than overloading the Tokyo iteration with tech, Stink Studios took a more streamlined approach, focusing on accessibility and engagement.

“It’s about finding the right balance between digital and physical,” Temple noted. “We didn’t want the digital experience to overshadow the exhibition, but rather enhance and complement it.”

In the past year, luxury brands have leaned into immersive exhibitions, from Dior’s “Designer of Dreams” showcase in Riyadh in January 2024 to Moncler’s March 2024 “City of Genius” in Shanghai drawing over 8,000 guests to Chanel’s lavish Métiers d’Art presentation in Hangzhou in December — the latter courted 1,000 top-tier clients.

Financially, Loewe’s gamble on multi-dimensional engagement has also helped the brand’s bottom line. The brand ended 2023 with a net profit of €207.3 million ($223.9 million) — a 62.5% increase from the previous year. The same year, revenue rose by nearly 30% to €810.8 million ($875.7 million), while operating profit jumped 77% to €247.5 million ($267.3 million), despite a 35% hike in operating expenses. LVMH, Loewe’s parent company, approved a total dividend distribution of €232.4 million ($251.0 million), including €25.1 million ($27.1 million) from reserves. The brand will be releasing its full-year 2024 results in October.

“Financially, we’re seeing the results of our creative and strategic initiatives paying off,” Smith said. “It’s about maintaining a balance between heritage and innovation — giving our audience something they haven’t experienced before while staying true to what makes Loewe, Loewe.”

Loewe is also turning a new page on the creative side. Last month, Jonathan Anderson’s tenure as creative director officially came to an end, leading the brand to announce the appointment of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler as its new creative directors. Known for their meticulous craftsmanship and art-inspired designs, the duo is expected to bring a fresh perspective to Loewe’s artistic ethos.

“Jack and Lazaro have an incredible history of craftsmanship and creativity with Proenza Schouler,” Smith said. “Their artistic approach aligns beautifully with what Loewe stands for. I’m excited to see how they build on Jonathan’s legacy while making their own mark.”

Smith remains optimistic about Loewe’s future. “Loewe is at a really exciting point,” he said. “Our audience is growing, our creative vision is evolving, and the Crafted World exhibition is part of that journey. It’s about finding new ways to connect with people, whether it’s through craft, creativity or playful innovation.”

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